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 Carling Contura II nav/anc wiring
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Badfish
Member

USA
49 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2007 :  10:57:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have a set of Carling Contura II switches that I am trying to wire up to my console (replacing old, worn switch panel). When ScottC slows down, I will be utilizing his skills for a more proper switch panel, but am improvising for the time being. All the Carling switches were previously connected to existing wiring harnesses which I will not be using. Most of the switches are ON/OFF type and the wiring/pin-out seems pretty self explanatory (1 to fuse, 1 to source and 1 to gnd). right?

I am having some trouble though when it comes to the ON/OFF/ON nav/anc switch. Does anyone know the pinouts or can show me a simple wiring diagram? ScottC perhaps? I have checked the pdf from the Carling website, but am still confused. It should be pretty simple, right?

http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/CarlingSW_V2_3.pdf

Thanks.

'84 17 Angler, Yamaha 90TLRC
Panama City, FL
"Tell me, are you a badfish too?"

warthog5
Wart

14547 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2007 :  11:09:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Actually the answer is in here.
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=17

http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13986

Electric Switch's

Switch info
http://www.dolphinmarineservice.homestead.com/Ele5.html



DOUBLE POLE, DOUBLE THROW (DPDT):

This is a common type of switch and is typically the most complex type of generic dashboard switch. It has what is equivilant to four ON / OFF switchs. It can be used to turn two things on and off in diferent combinations or four things on and off in pairs. There are five versions shown below. Diagrams 5 and 14 show the standard switch in two layout versions. Diagram 6 and 16 show two potential hookups for the switch. Diagram 15 shows a different configuration of switch as well as an illuminated version. These switches are used anywhere a two position, multiple combination, on off functions are required. I.E. switiching between two operating modes. For example: running lights (anchor and navigation), electric winches (up and down), generating 24 volts from a 12 volt system, or where there is a desire to disconnect both the positive and negative connections to a device. These are also available in a center off position where neither circuit is activated.




So if you have a single pole single throw [SPST] aka [ON/OFF] the switch will not work. most panels like the Blue Seas that people buy only have [ON/OFF] switch's in them and you must buy a [DPDT] switch separate and install it.
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Badfish
Member

USA
49 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2007 :  11:37:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
THANKS! The switch I have is an illuminated switch with labels on the switch itself for nav light (top) and anchor light (bottom). So DPDT switch, right?
Previously, the running lights and anchor light were controlled seperately by 2 SPST switches (basic generic switch panel similar to the Blue Sea's type mentioned). I picked up an old stock Mako switch panel from John at Foursons and took it apart. Thought this would be an easy solution to help get me through the rest of the summer
J

'84 17 Angler, Yamaha 90TLRC
Panama City, FL
"Tell me, are you a badfish too?"
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warthog5
Wart

14547 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2007 :  17:31:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
So DPDT switch, right?


Yep.
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ScottC
Member

883 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2007 :  20:47:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wart is right no as usual, if you still have a problem understanding it do not hesitate to call me, . If you need to, call me and I can walk you through it anything day night or weekends.


Also be aware that you have a DPDT switch but you have more then 6 terminals, the very top one(or two if using a independant indicator lights) is for the indicator lights in the switch. Most of them are what we call dependatly wired, meaning they get thier power internally from all four power out terminals, but if you have two (like my bilge switches) then you have to supply both power and ground to get the light to work. I do not recommend this switch for the nav/anchor, hopfully you have the 7 terminal model, this way all you have to do is ground the very top termial (usually located on the left side of the row) and your switch will lights up in both positions imediatly.

www.vectorled.com

Edited by - ScottC on 12/11/2007 20:54:22
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Badfish
Member

USA
49 Posts

Posted - 12/13/2007 :  13:28:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Scott,
Thanks for offering to help. I will check when I get home tonight to see if I have the 6 or 7 terminal model. I haven't been able to get much work done on the boat since this post (being TDY with work for long periods of time makes it tough). Things are slowing down now and I hope to have everything up and running by the new year. a mako17 placard order won't be too far off :)

Thanks again

'84 17 Angler, Yamaha 90TLRC
Panama City, FL
"Tell me, are you a badfish too?"
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Badfish
Member

USA
49 Posts

Posted - 03/26/2008 :  07:57:57  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Scott-
you were right, I had the 7 terminal model.

I got all the rewiring finished up last weekend. I was supposed to have done it months and months ago, but work & life... all gets in the way sometimes.

I will try and get some pictures of the finished console posted soon. It is no where near professional but it will get me by for now and I have learned lots. I will absolutlely be needing your service later down the road!

Warthog, thanks too for the help. I nav/anchor wiring surprisingly was pretty easy after looking at the switch info you posted and a bit of tinkering. I spent the most time making sure my bilge and float switch were all done correctly. It was a pain but I feel very much at ease knowing it has been done right and everything works correctly.

Thanks again guys!

'84 17 Angler, Yamaha 90TLRC
Panama City, FL
"Tell me, are you a badfish too?"
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