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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
 Posted - 09/30/2007 : 19:08:20
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My other thread was all over the place, because I wasn't intending a complete rebuild  This is a 1977 17' Mako that will be rebuilt 'from the ground up.' I will be using 3:1 FGCI Lam. Epoxy for the build.
Stringers are all shot - will be replaced with 2" polyurethane foam. I will go with a grid.
Transom was worm food all around the trim tabs and mounting hardware. No sealant! Transom core will be the standard 1.5" of marine grade plywood.
Sole will go on top of the 2" lip with stringer support under - not sure on plywood or nidacore.
Epoxy fillet followed by tape wet on wet.
I'm picking up the plywood tomorrow. I hope to get it all set this week, so I can put it in this weekend.  This is the first time I have used epoxy(on a boat). Wow! I always thought it was hype... I did have 12oz go off to soon  I don't think I did a good job mixing. I need to mix it like I do with rod building. Stupid me! |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
Edited by - umachme on 08/01/2010 17:39:53 |
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grantn
Member
USA
545 Posts |
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Diamond Dave
Member
USA
549 Posts |
Posted - 10/01/2007 : 11:33:55
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How bad was your tank? From the pics it looks like the original. What are your planes for your fuel system. I’m having a new tank made for my 17. I wish I could find a polyethylene tank that would give me more capacity but it’s not going to happen.  I’m going to have to go with aluminum.
I’ll treat the tank and I won’t be foaming it in. I feel confident it will last a good 5 to 10 years. If I keep this boat 5 years I’ll be surprised. Having the tank max out I should get 30 gal when it’s done. Just removed all the foam and measured the coffin. Good luck with your project.
Dave
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1978 Mako 17 Standerd
1990 Welcraft 33 Sportfish 2000 14 Polar Craft |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 10/01/2007 : 12:55:32
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quote:
Originally posted by Diamond Dave
How bad was your tank?
Dave
I had a replacement made - If I knew I was going to go through all this work I would have put a 35-40 in. I still might have a 5-10gal res. tank. 24gal is pretty small for what I want to do.
I'll be stopping in at FGCI for some wood on the way home. |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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Rd
Member
USA
178 Posts |
Posted - 10/02/2007 : 07:01:05
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| That looks great. Keep the pictures coming. Youre making great progress. |
1971 17 Standard
Clemson SC |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 10/03/2007 : 10:56:25
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I'm going to glue my core together after work. Any tips?
Wet out both pieces of wood and glass(1.5oz) with straight epoxy - Then make some "epoxy" glue (Epoxy, milled fibers, wood flour...put it all together and set some blocks on it or dry wall screw together... |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
Edited by - umachme on 10/03/2007 10:57:47 |
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grantn
Member
USA
545 Posts |
Posted - 10/03/2007 : 11:12:32
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| actually the mat will act as a filler. wet out the wood on the sides you're going to join and let the resin gel. then wet out the mat and join the core. i would use something heavy to sit on them. remember you don't want to squeeze all of the resin out. using the mat you eliminate the step of making the 'glue'. the important thing is to get the surface of the wood saturated and sealed so that it will not wick the resin from the mat and give you a 'dry' bond. use the thickened epoxy on the transom skin to fill any voids the mat will not. with the flat pieces of wood there shouldn't be many voids. unless of course you like overkill! [:x)] |
Grant
89 230 WA 90 225 Yamaha "Re-Make"
"Cutting the claws off the beast!"
79 25 CC "IN THE MEANTIME..."
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18771
87 21b 97 Suzuki DT200
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23633
New Orleans, LA
grantn@bellsouth.net |
Edited by - grantn on 10/03/2007 11:13:30 |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 10/03/2007 : 12:10:13
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quote:
Originally posted by grantn
actually the mat will act as a filler. wet out the wood on the sides you're going to join and let the resin gel. then wet out the mat and join the core. i would use something heavy to sit on them. remember you don't want to squeeze all of the resin out. using the mat you eliminate the step of making the 'glue'. the important thing is to get the surface of the wood saturated and sealed so that it will not wick the resin from the mat and give you a 'dry' bond. use the thickened epoxy on the transom skin to fill any voids the mat will not. with the flat pieces of wood there shouldn't be many voids. unless of course you like overkill! [:x)]
Thanks! It's clear now!
How thick should I make the glue when I bond the core to the skin...Should it be like Peanut butter since it's on a somewhat vertical surface? |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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grantn
Member
USA
545 Posts |
Posted - 10/03/2007 : 13:09:16
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yes, but you would want to use a notched spreader to put it on. vertical or horizontal when using the resin this way (or any other adhesive for that matter) you want it the consistency of peanut butter. this will let it spread without 'running'. anything thinner and you have the bonded material pushing out all of the mixture and sitting flatter on the substrate with less of the adhesive there for bonding. what you want is a layer that will coat the entire surface of both parts and leave enough thickness (but not too thick) to let the adhesive do its job. you will also want to coat the side of the plywood with straight resin (for same reasons as before) and let it tack before putting it against the thickened mixture.
again here (some of the more experienced hands may want to add their wisdom) you may want to lay up a piece of mat on the face of the ply wood before laying it on the fiberglass coated with the thickened resin. the mat will give a near 100% adhesion surface to the wood and then 'absorb' the thickened resin into it giving a much more thorough bond to the fiberglass. and again, this may be overkill, but......... |
Grant
89 230 WA 90 225 Yamaha "Re-Make"
"Cutting the claws off the beast!"
79 25 CC "IN THE MEANTIME..."
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18771
87 21b 97 Suzuki DT200
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23633
New Orleans, LA
grantn@bellsouth.net |
Edited by - grantn on 10/03/2007 13:11:37 |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 10/06/2007 : 19:24:31
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Well I got the transom core. I was able to get both pieces out of 1 sheet of Marine Tech. I put the epoxy in the frige before using it and didn't waste any.
A guy is flipping the house next to me must have 30 blocks he is trying to dump. I put a few to use. I'll use a bunch when I get the floor in......when ever that is.
I had some left over PT so I used it for the clamps. Pre-pouring everything into small containers and puting them in the frige really made this go quick! I'll clean everything up and run some fillets this week. I hope I can get the glass laid next weekend.
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Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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chewy
Member
USA
27 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2007 : 16:16:18
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| hey ryan, hows the project coming alone? |
Chewy
1972 17' Mako
1988 115 Yamaha
S. Tampa, FL |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2007 : 18:57:01
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quote:
Originally posted by chewy
hey ryan, hows the project coming alone?
I took the clamps off early in the week. That epoxy is crazy strong! Broke a couple of bolts getting that bad boy off. You could build a boat or space ship out of epoxy and duct tape [:x)]
Cut my 3 layers of 1808 yesterday. I think this is the one time that a smaller boat was tuffer to do. All those cuts in a tight area. I'm going to fillet/glass the inner side tomorrow after work.
I will be using 2" polyurethane foam board for the stringers (thanks Rick). I'll cut one out of the boat this weekend. Looks like more time in the Tyvek suit :( Can't wait to get a sub 85° day.... |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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johnhermes
Member
408 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2007 : 19:23:56
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I redid that exact same model boat, except mine was a '78. I did not want to hijack your thread, so I threw some pics up: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19077
I plan on doing a Mako 20, but I am waiting until January and the cooler weather. |
1988 Mako 20, 2008 Yamaha 200HPDI
Tampa, Florida |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 10/13/2007 : 17:31:50
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All the charts for the FGCI 3:1 Epoxy are based on 77°. Last night it was 77°  Milled fibers and some "filler" followed by 3 layers of 1808.....and some "extra" tabbing on the sides.... I was flying!!!
Clean this up and add some 1.5oz to finish it off...stringers here I come... |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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johnhermes
Member
408 Posts |
Posted - 10/14/2007 : 02:21:07
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| That transom looks really good. |
1988 Mako 20, 2008 Yamaha 200HPDI
Tampa, Florida |
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leggomymako
Member
USA
435 Posts |
Posted - 10/19/2007 : 22:03:12
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| I've never rebuilt a transom, but I've seen a lot of pics on this site....and I think that's the best looking transom work I've seen..........SWEET! |
1985 Mako 17, E-TEC 115
Statham, GA |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2007 : 08:18:00
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quote:
Originally posted by leggomymako
I've never rebuilt a transom, but I've seen a lot of pics on this site....and I think that's the best looking transom work I've seen..........SWEET!
Trick Photography, but thanks! [:x)]I ground all the extra material off the edges. I still have to add the last layer of 1.5oz. Maybe, sometime this week. I have to work all weekend, we are a man down I'm hoping to get most of my work done in Dec as I took 2.5 weeks off!!![(#)]My wife is already chirping about boating/fishing in the summer of '08  |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 11/04/2007 : 18:29:08
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I added that 1.5oz to the transom, removed the port stringer and ground down the area for the new stringer. I'm picking up the polyurethane foam board tomorrow from FGCI.
I guess I need to start thinking of a lay out below deck now. I was thinking of adding a below deck fish box/storage in front of the fuel tank. Maybe taking the old fuel coffin and cutting 2ft out of the middle. Anyone do anything like that? Better just to make a new box? |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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capt zippy
Member
USA
341 Posts |
Posted - 11/11/2007 : 20:47:27
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Hey Ryan I am enjoying seeing your work looks great! I was thinking about some type of fwd. in deck box on my boat too. In the long run I just gave up because I felt there was not enough volume under the deck there to warrant the cutting. Prove me wrong I would love a box there. Want to be the test boat ? [:x)] Your project looks awesome I cant wait to see more pics.
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1973 17'Standard
1999 115 2 stroke Yamaha
Hobe Sound,FL |
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adaps
Member
267 Posts |
Posted - 11/11/2007 : 21:08:02
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Ryan-
Where are you in St Pete? I am up in Crescent Heights. I would love to check out what you are doing, you know- just in case. If you need a ride on a Mako, you can come with me some time on my 21. |
1986 Mako 21B - Clearwater,FL
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 11/12/2007 : 12:04:24
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Thanks capt! I layed the port stringer on Sunday. Glued and tabbed in place. I extended it about 4" above the deck so I could hold it into place. I need to go back and cut it to the correct size. This is so easy to do with foam stringers. I should lay the 3 layers of 1808 this week/weekend. I'll post some pics. I'm going to put some type of in deck storage/cooler/tackle - not sure yet.
Adaps - I'm down in Pinellas Point. Thanks for the invite! |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 11/25/2007 : 08:09:15
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I have been doing more fishing and less building the past few weeks. I will be off for 2wks in Dec, so I hope to get a bunch done! This is my port stringer and the rest of my mess. I have to grind out a couple small spot's that didn't get bubble busted - oh well...
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Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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aiezzi
New Member
USA
19 Posts |
Posted - 11/25/2007 : 11:11:19
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| looking good keep up the good work. |
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capt zippy
Member
USA
341 Posts |
Posted - 11/26/2007 : 21:55:19
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Looking good man. Any thoughts on the final color?
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1973 17'Standard
1999 115 2 stroke Yamaha
Hobe Sound,FL |
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BlueTherapy
Member
USA
35 Posts |
Posted - 11/27/2007 : 00:29:28
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Looks great! I love those 17 footers.
How are you going power it? |
Mike Pritchard, Co-Owner
Bryan White Co-Owner
Ocean Springs, MS
1985 Mako 254 w/250 Mercury |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 11/27/2007 : 16:25:58
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quote:
Originally posted by capt zippy
Looking good man. Any thoughts on the final color?
I think it will be the a light blue or green in Awl Grip. I would like to see one done. I just don't want anything Dark....I'm sure I will have some time to think about it [88]
Looks like the '87 Yami will get cleaned up. I was thinking about rebuilding it, but I think I will wait until it dies. It's got a even 120-125psi and ran smooth. |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
Edited by - umachme on 11/27/2007 16:30:16 |
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chewy
Member
USA
27 Posts |
Posted - 12/18/2007 : 09:03:40
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| hey ryan.. i see that the project is coming along great!! any new development.. |
Chewy
1972 17' Mako
1988 115 Yamaha
S. Tampa, FL |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 12/18/2007 : 10:43:19
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quote:
Originally posted by chewy
hey ryan.. i see that the project is coming along great!! any new development..
2nd Stringer glued yesterday -waiting for the temp to go up a few deg to lay the 1808. Should be done with it today.
I need to do a good cleaning job - dust is getting crazy I'm off all week, but I have the kids. Work during sleepy time [88]
I'll post some picsl.. |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 01/28/2008 : 15:02:58
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Well, not much has been done in the past month [:-(]I did get the other stringer in - was 1/2" shorterAdded a thin layer of foam and glass...I blame that on watching the kids I pulled the center stringer this weekend and started grinding(HF grinder craped out). Cut a 3" piece of PVC in half for a center stringer - should go in this weekend.
I have the fiberglass flu today - need a better mask... |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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LilRichard
Member
486 Posts |
Posted - 01/28/2008 : 15:09:33
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Looking good - missed your last update somehow.
That foam is really easy to work with, no? |
Tampa, FL |
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Mike Hammer
Member
USA
156 Posts |
Posted - 01/28/2008 : 17:33:45
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This is the info I was looking for on the interior, thanks.
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71 17'Standard Project in progress
22 Mckee twin Johnsons ready to go
73 17' Montauk sitting waiting it's turn
Eastern Pa. |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 01/30/2008 : 06:35:51
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quote:
Originally posted by LilRichard
Looking good - missed your last update somehow.
That foam is really easy to work with, no?
That foam is great! I need to pick up another sheet for the bulkheads. Even with the mistake I made I was able to cut a nice thin piece without any trouble.
On your build, you didn't tab your center 'stringer' in - correct? |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 02/02/2008 : 20:45:29
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Started the center stringer - I'll finish it off in the AM. Nice 75° day!!
3" PVC pipe cut in half.
5# bucket filled with dust Lot's of bad glass and airvoids filled with water. I layed a skim coat of epoxy/filler/milled fibers on the starb.stern side....It was in sad shape...
3"PVC sanded with 120grit and cut in half
Glued and tabed in - Lots of dust in the surrounding area I'll lay the 1808 tomorrow.
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Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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capt zippy
Member
USA
341 Posts |
Posted - 02/02/2008 : 22:07:15
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| It is looking good man. How are you going to set-up the wire-run forward? |
1973 17'Standard
1999 115 2 stroke Yamaha
Hobe Sound,FL |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 02/04/2008 : 06:53:55
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quote:
Originally posted by capt zippy
It is looking good man. How are you going to set-up the wire-run forward?
I'll have 2 rigging tubes running back - I might have one under the anchor locker or one under each step. I would rather have to many...Still haven't come up with an idea for storage/cooler/bait well in front of the fuel tank... I would like to use that space. |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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Mike Hammer
Member
USA
156 Posts |
Posted - 02/04/2008 : 07:30:12
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I'm cutting the floor out on mine tomorrow, I'm hoping to do this whole thing in about 3-4 months.
I've been looking and thinking about moving the tank and console forward a bit to get a little more weight up front when it goes back together. |
71 17'Standard Project in progress
22 Mckee twin Johnsons ready to go
73 17' Montauk sitting waiting it's turn
Eastern Pa. |
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makorider
Member
1261 Posts |
Posted - 02/04/2008 : 11:52:41
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Hammer
I'm cutting the floor out on mine tomorrow, I'm hoping to do this whole thing in about 3-4 months.
I've been looking and thinking about moving the tank and console forward a bit to get a little more weight up front when it goes back together.
I dont think I would. I always liked the balance on my 17. Unless you're hanging some huge horse on the transom
Put tabs on her if you think you'll want the bow down (which you will) at times |
1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs
Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
Posted - 02/04/2008 : 18:59:46
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Hammer
I'm cutting the floor out on mine tomorrow, I'm hoping to do this whole thing in about 3-4 months.
I've been looking and thinking about moving the tank and console forward a bit to get a little more weight up front when it goes back together.
Do you want to move it FWD to keep the scuppers out of the water? My deck will be about 1" higher to help with this. Also, if you take the fuel coffin out the tank will sit lower and I think you could move it FWD without and adverse effects. |
Ryan
St. Pete, FL
1977 17' Mako Standard
1987 115 Yami
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18920 |
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Diamond Dave
Member
USA
549 Posts |
Posted - 02/04/2008 : 19:21:55
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Ryan,
This is the livewell setup on my 17. It’s getting totally re- rigged, all new pluming under the deck, raw water fill pump, cir pump in the well.
Dave
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1978 Mako 17 Standerd
1990 Welcraft 33 Sportfish 2000 14 Polar Craft |
Edited by - Diamond Dave on 02/04/2008 19:45:52 |
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umachme
Member
USA
511 Posts |
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Diamond Dave
Member
USA
549 Posts |
Posted - 02/05/2008 : 18:44:37
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Hey Ryan,
You’re doing an awesome job bro. Slow and steady wins the race. You transom looks great, did you consider raising it up any? I’m glad I have mine up at 26”, as far as the livewell the bait should do just fine. I noticed in your early pic’s there are no scupper holes in the transom. Did the pervious owner seal them up???? Keep the pic’s coming.
Dave
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1978 Mako 17 Standerd
1990 Welcraft 33 Sportfish 2000 14 Polar Craft |
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Topic |
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17' Primer Done
