Page 6
The tank had
previously been cleaned, prepped and painted with zinc chromate. I tried to buy
coal tar epoxy, but the lead-time was excessive. I was surprised when a company
like Devcon (located about 5 miles from me) said they would have to run another
lot if I wanted some and it would be 3 - 4 weeks. I opted for another choice -
automotive rust inhibitor. This will protect the tank better than the bare
aluminum.
Sprayed last night and it was dry today. I only sprayed the part of the tank in
contact with the foam.
I dragged one of "my" dinner guests out in the garage to help me flip the tank over and put in the boat, it dropped right in. You can see where I did some foaming but ran out. I need to buy one more kit to finish, but will buy an extra to have kicking around. I hooked up the gounds after sanding the contact points and also coated with a corrosion inhibitor made for electrical connections. Hoses are new and double hose clamped and clamps are positioned 180 degrees from each other.
I have been reading lots of opinions on what valve should be used on the tank due to material differences. I used the same aluminum valve that came on the boat with some teflon tape. I consider similar materials optimal.
Tomorrow's project is to test fit all the stainless hardware I purchased. I canned all the aluminum that came on the boat because I do not like the way it looks. Everything is being replaced with 316SS. This is only a portion of what has been purchased.
I'm also narrowing down my choice for deck drains. I dislike the OEM flapper valves and already removed the lousy brass inserts. I'm going to wait until the surrounding wood dries and install a threaded plastic discharge that will require some fitting due the proximity to each other. I will post images when I do this, but I just wanted to test fit the Sea-Stop deck units. These include the 12 degree backing plate.
I opened up the deck
drains and glassed them. I was trying to think of a way to make the glass right
around the entire oval shape I cut and thought of something that worked great.
What I started with, lousy OEM bronze units that leak!
Hole with resin epoxy coating the core.
I soaked the glass in epoxy and applied it all around the opening. I then used a balloon to prevent it from forming bubbles or not adhering to the core and inner/outer fiberglass skins.
It worked better than I thought it would and the balloon comes right out when popped.
I finished foaming the tank and found that a laundry detergant bottle works best for mixing. I out in the 50-50 mix, put the cap on and shake for a short time until mixed and then remove the cap (before it kicks) and you can pour without mess and toss the bottle when done.
Here is what I will wind up having for a stopper.
2 light tabs and 4
rod holders are now tig welded to the t-top. I now have to throw it in the truck
and visit the powdercoater to make sure it is prepped the way he wants it. If he
likes it, he can start right away, otherwise I will so some additional prep
work.
stern shot (the light is a deck flood - stern)
Bow shot (ditto - bow deck flood)
Nice Clean Welds
